# STEVEN MADDEN, LTD. (SHOO) FY 2023 MD&A

Verbatim Item 7 Management's Discussion and Analysis from STEVEN MADDEN, LTD.'s 10-K for fiscal year 2023.

SEC filing source: https://www.sec.gov/Archives/edgar/data/913241/000162828024008331/shoo-20231231.htm
Accession: 0001628280-24-008331
Filing date: 2024-03-04
Report date: 2023-12-31
Extracted structurally from real Item 7 body heading to real Item 7A/8 boundary. Published MD&A gate trimmed front/tail over-capture.
Confidence: high

Company profile: /company/SHOO/
All MD&A years: /company/SHOO/mda/
Previous year: /company/SHOO/mda/fy2022/ (FY 2022)
Next year: /company/SHOO/mda/fy2024/ (FY 2024)

ITEM 7. MANAGEMENT’S DISCUSSION AND ANALYSIS OF FINANCIAL CONDITION AND RESULTS OF OPERATIONS

The following discussion of our financial condition and results of operations should be read in conjunction with our audited consolidated financial statements and notes thereto appearing elsewhere in this Annual Report on Form 10-K.

Overview

($ in thousands, except for retail store count, earnings per share, and per share data)

Steven Madden, Ltd. and its subsidiaries design, source, and market fashion-forward branded and private label footwear, accessories, and apparel. We distribute our products in the wholesale channel through department stores, mass merchants, off-price retailers, shoe chains, online retailers, national chains, specialty retailers, independent stores, and clubs throughout the United States, Canada, Mexico, and Europe, and other international markets through our joint ventures in Israel, South Africa, China, Taiwan, Malaysia, and the Middle East along with special distribution arrangements in certain European countries, North Africa, South and Central America, Australia, and various countries in Asia. In addition, our products are distributed through our direct-to-consumer channel within the United States, Canada, Mexico, and Europe, and our joint ventures in Israel, South Africa, China, Taiwan, and the Middle East.

Our product lines include a broad range of contemporary styles designed to establish or capitalize on market trends, complemented by core product offerings. We have established a reputation for design creativity and our ability to offer quality, trend-right products at accessible price points, delivered in an efficient manner and time frame.

We manage our operations through our operating divisions, which are presented as the following reportable segments: Wholesale Footwear, Wholesale Accessories/Apparel, Direct-to-Consumer, and Licensing. As of January 2023, the Company no longer serves as a buying agent for any of its customers, and as a result no longer reports under the First Cost segment. This change is not considered to have a material or meaningful impact on the Company's operations. Our Wholesale Footwear segment designs, sources, and markets our brands and sells our products to department stores, mass merchants, off-price retailers, shoe chains, online retailers, national chains, specialty retailers, independent stores, and clubs throughout the United States, Canada, Mexico, and Europe, and through our joint ventures and international distributor network. Our Wholesale Accessories/Apparel segment designs, sources, and markets our brands and sells our products to department stores, mass merchants, off-price retailers, online retailers, specialty retailers, independent stores, and clubs throughout the United States, Canada, Mexico, and Europe and through our joint ventures and international distributor network. Our Direct-to-Consumer segment consists of Steve Madden® and Dolce Vita® full-price retail stores, Steve Madden® outlet stores, Steve Madden® concessions in international markets, and our directly-operated digital e-commerce websites. We operate retail locations in regional malls and shopping centers, as well as high streets in major cities across the United States, Canada, Mexico, Europe, Israel, South Africa, Taiwan, China, and the Middle East. Our Licensing segment is engaged in the licensing of the Steve Madden® and Betsey Johnson® trademarks for use in the sale of select apparel, accessory, and home categories as well as various other non-core products. Corporate does not constitute a reportable segment and includes costs not directly attributable to the segments. These costs are primarily related to expenses associated with corporate executives, corporate finance, corporate social responsibility, legal, human resources, information technology, cyber security, and other shared services.

Dividends    

Our Board of Directors approved a quarterly cash dividend of $0.21 per share on our outstanding shares of common stock which was paid on March 24, 2023, June 23, 2023, September 25, 2023, and December 29, 2023. The aggregate cash dividends paid for the twelve months ended December 31, 2023 was $63,177.

On February 27, 2024, our Board of Directors approved a quarterly dividend of $0.21 per share is payable on March 22, 2024 to stockholders of record as of the close of business on March 8, 2024.

23

Executive Summary

Recent Developments

Acquisitions

On October 20, 2023, we acquired substantially all of the assets and certain liabilities of Turn On Products Inc. ("Almost Famous"), for cash consideration of $73,228 and a future payment contingent on the Almost Famous brand achieving certain earnings before interest and tax ("EBIT") targets. In connection therewith, we recorded a short-term liability of $3,325 and a long-term liability of $9,975 as of the date of acquisition to reflect the estimated fair value of the contingent purchase price. The fair value of the contingent payments liability was estimated on the date of acquisition using the Monte Carlo simulation model, which included significant unobservable Level 3 inputs, such as projected EBIT over the earn-out period and a discount rate of 20.3%. Changes in these significant unobservable inputs might result in a significantly higher or lower fair value measurement. The maximum consideration which can be paid over the consideration period of four years is $68,000 and there are no minimum payments required. The liability will be remeasured at each reporting period with changes in fair value recorded in earnings. The amount of future payments will be determined by Almost Famous's future performance with no minimum future payment. After the effect of closing adjustments, the total purchase price of the acquisition was $86,528. The acquisition was funded by cash on hand. Almost Famous is a designer and marketer of women’s junior apparel. Almost Famous distributes its products to wholesale customers, including mass merchants, department stores, off-price retailers, and chain stores within the United States. Almost Famous markets products under its own brands, primarily Almost Famous, as well as private label brands for various retailers. For additional information on this acquisition, refer to Note D – Acquisitions & Sale of Minority Noncontrolling Interest in the notes to our consolidated financial statements included in this Annual Report.

Key Highlights

Total revenue for 2023 decreased by 6.6% to $1,981,582 from $2,122,009 in 2022. Net income attributable to Steven Madden, Ltd. was $171,554 in 2023 compared to $216,061 in 2022. Our effective tax rate for 2023 decreased to 21.1% compared to 23.1% in 2022. Diluted earnings per share in 2023 was $2.30 per share on 74,565 diluted weighted average shares outstanding compared to diluted income of $2.77 per share on 78,069 diluted weighted average shares outstanding in the prior year.

As of December 31, 2023, we had 255 brick-and-mortar retail stores and five e-commerce websites in operation, compared to 232 brick-and-mortar retail stores and six e-commerce websites as of December 31, 2022. This increase resulted from the opening of 38 brick-and-mortar stores, most in international markets, offset by the closure of 15 brick-and-mortar stores and one e-commerce site. The Company also operated 25 concessions in international markets.

Our inventory turnover (calculated on a trailing four quarter average) for the years ended December 31, 2023 and 2022 was 5.6 times and 4.9 times, respectively. Our total Company accounts receivable average collection days were 71 days in 2023 compared to 72 days in 2022. As of December 31, 2023, we had $219,813 in cash, cash equivalents, and short-term investments, no debt, and total stockholders’ equity of $848,032. Working capital decreased to $477,208 as of December 31, 2023, compared to $522,649 on December 31, 2022.

As we look ahead, we remain focused on delivering trend-right product, deepening connections with our consumers, growing our international business, expanding our non-footwear categories, enhancing our digital commerce business, strengthening our core U.S. wholesale business, and efficiently managing our inventory and expenses, while continuing to make meaningful progress on our corporate social responsibility initiatives.

24

RESULTS OF OPERATIONS

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intangibles","","6,520","","","1.3","%","","\u2014","","","\u2014","%","","\u2014","","","\u2014","%"],["Impairment of lease right-of-use asset and fixed assets","","\u2014","","","\u2014","%","","\u2014","","","\u2014","%","","781","","","0.2","%"],["Income from operations","","$","30,160","","","6.0","%","","$","67,649","","","13.0","%","","$","74,542","","","15.3","%"],["Number of stores","","260","","","","238","","","","220"],["FIRST COST SEGMENT:"],["Commission fee income","","$","\u2014","","","\u2014","%","","$","916","","","100.0","%","","$","2,346","","","100.0","%"],["Gross profit","","\u2014","","","\u2014","%","","916","","","100.0","%","","2,346","","","100.0","%"],["Operating expenses","","\u2014","","","\u2014","%","","150","","","16.4","%","","375","","","16.0","%"],["Income from operations","","$","\u2014","","","\u2014","%","","$","766","","","83.6","%","","$","1,971","","","84.0","%"],["LICENSING SEGMENT:"],["Licensing fee income","","$","10,108","","","100.0","%","","$","9,798","","","100.0","%","","$","9,893","","","100.0","%"],["Gross profit","","10,108","","","100.0","%","","9,798","","","100.0","%","","9,893","","","100.0","%"],["Operating expenses","","1,681","","","16.6","%","","1,944","","","19.8","%","","1,785","","","18.0","%"],["Income from operations","","$","8,427","","","83.4","%","","$","7,854","","","80.2","%","","$","8,108","","","82.0","%"],["CORPORATE:"],["Operating expenses","","$","(91,743)","","","\u2014","%","","$","(89,358)","","","\u2014","%","","$","(84,815)","","","\u2014","%"],["Loss from operations","","$","(91,743)","","","\u2014","%","","$","(89,358)","","","\u2014","%","","$","(84,815)","","","\u2014","%"]]
[[/GREPCENT_TABLE]]

25

The following section discusses our results of operations for 2023 and 2022 and year-to-year comparisons between those periods. Discussions of 2021 and year-to-year comparisons between 2022 and 2021 are not included in this Annual Report on Form 10-K and can be found within Part II, Item 7, “Management’s Discussion and Analysis of Financial Condition and Results of Operations” in our 2022 Annual Report on Form 10-K filed with the SEC on March 1, 2023.

Year Ended December 31, 2023 vs. Year Ended December 31, 2022

Consolidated:

Total revenue in the year ended December 31, 2023 decreased 6.6% to $1,981,582 compared to $2,122,009 in 2022, with decreases in the Wholesale Footwear and Direct-to-Consumer segments, partially offset by increases in the Wholesale Accessories/Apparel and Licensing segments. Gross profit was $832,414, or 42.0% of total revenue, as compared to $873,836, or 41.2% of total revenue, in the prior year. The increase in gross profit as a percentage of total revenue was primarily driven by an improvement in gross margin in the Wholesale Accessories/Apparel segment, partially offset by lower gross margin in the Wholesale Footwear and Direct-to-Consumer segments. Gross profit in 2023 included a charge of $2,023, related to the fair value step-up of inventory in connection with the acquisition of Almost Famous. Operating expenses in 2023 were $612,672, or 30.9%, of total revenue, as compared to $592,192, or 27.9% of total revenue, in the prior year. Operating expenses in 2023 included severance and a certain office restructuring costs of $3,803 and acquisition costs of $2,443 primarily related to the acquisition of Almost Famous and international joint-ventures. Operating expenses in 2022 included the accelerated amortization of a trademark of $7,050 and a benefit from the change in valuation of a contingent consideration of $5,807. The 2023 financial results also included a pre-tax charge of $6,520 for an impairment of a trademark. In the year ended December 31, 2023, income from operations decreased to $213,222, or 10.8% of total revenue, as compared to $281,644, or 13.3% of total revenue, in the prior year. The effective tax rate for the year ended December 31, 2023 was 21.1% compared to 23.1% last year. The primary changes between the Company’s effective tax rate for the year ended December 31, 2023 and 2022 are due to a higher tax benefit related to equity-based awards and jurisdictional mix. Net income attributable to Steven Madden, Ltd. for the year ended December 31, 2023 was $171,554 compared to $216,061 for the year ended December 31, 2022.

Wholesale Footwear Segment:

Revenue from the Wholesale Footwear segment in the year ended December 31, 2023 accounted for $1,048,448, or 52.9% of total revenue, as compared to $1,194,890, or 56.3% of total revenue, in the year ended December 31, 2022. The 12.3% decrease in revenue in the current year is primarily the result of a moderation in wholesale customers' order patterns in a challenging retail environment, impacting both our branded and private label businesses. Gross profit was $370,631, or 35.4% of Wholesale Footwear revenue, in the year ended December 31, 2023 as compared to $431,081, or 36.1% of Wholesale Footwear revenue, in the year ended December 31, 2022. The decrease of gross profit as a percentage of revenue was primarily due to higher promotional activity partially offset by lower freight expenses. Operating expenses in the year ended December 31, 2023 were $165,681, or 15.8%, of Wholesale Footwear revenue, as compared to $166,123, or 13.9% of Wholesale Footwear revenue, in the year ended December 31, 2022. The increase in operating expenses as a percentage of Wholesale Footwear revenue was primarily due to expense deleverage on a lower revenue base. Operating expenses in 2023 included severance and a certain office restructuring costs of $1,546 and acquisition costs of $929 related to newly formed international joint ventures. Income from operations decreased to $204,950, or 19.5% of Wholesale Footwear revenue in 2023 as compared to $264,958, or 22.2% of Wholesale Footwear revenue, in 2022.

Wholesale Accessories/Apparel Segment:

Revenue from the Wholesale Accessories/Apparel segment in the year ended December 31, 2023 accounted for $416,532, or 21.0% of total revenue, as compared to $394,676, or 18.6% of total revenue, in the year ended December 31, 2022. The 5.5% increase in revenue resulted primarily from the performance of our branded handbag business and the additional apparel revenue related to the acquisition of Almost Famous, partially offset by a reduction in our private label business. Gross profit was $135,168, or 32.5% of Wholesale Accessories/Apparel revenue, in the year ended December 31, 2023, as compared to $100,085, or 25.4% of Wholesale Accessories/Apparel revenue, in the year ended December 31, 2022. The increase in gross profit as a percentage of revenue was primarily due to lower freight costs, improved production costs, and lower markdown allowances. Operating expenses in the year ended December 31, 2023 were $73,740, or 17.7%, of Wholesale Accessories/Apparel revenue, as compared to $70,310, or 17.8%, of Wholesale Accessories/Apparel revenue, in the year ended December 31, 2022. Operating expenses in 2023 included acquisition costs of $1,505 related to the acquisition of Almost Famous. Operating expenses in 2022 included the accelerated amortization of a trademark of $7,050 and a benefit from the change in valuation of a contingent consideration of $5,807. Income from operations for the Wholesale Accessories/Apparel segment in 2023 was $61,428, or 14.7% of Wholesale Accessories/Apparel revenue, as compared to $29,775, or 7.5% of Wholesale Accessories/Apparel revenue, in 2022.

26

Direct-to-Consumer Segment:

In the year ended December 31, 2023, revenue from the Direct-to-Consumer segment accounted for $506,494, or 25.6% of total revenue, as compared to $521,729, or 24.6% of total revenue, in the twelve months of 2022. The 2.9% decrease in revenue was primarily driven by a decline in our e-commerce business and brick-and-mortar comparable store sales, partially offset by the addition of the Middle East joint-venture and the expansion of our footprint in international markets. We opened 38 brick-and-mortar stores and closed 15 brick-and-mortar stores and one e-commerce site during the year ended December 31, 2023 and ended the year with 255 brick-and-mortar stores and five e-commerce sites compared to 232 brick-and-mortar stores and six e-commerce sites as of December 31, 2022. In addition, we operated 25 concessions in international markets as of December 31, 2023 compared to 20 concessions in international markets as of December 31, 2022. During the year ended December 31, 2023, gross profit was $316,507, or 62.5% of Direct-to-Consumer revenue, compared to $331,956, or 63.6% of Direct-to-Consumer revenue, in the twelve months of 2022. The decrease in gross profit as a percentage of revenue was primarily due to higher promotional activity, partially offset by lower freight costs. Operating expenses for the twelve months of 2023 were $279,827, or 55.2% of Direct-to-Consumer revenue, as compared to $264,307, or 50.7% of Direct-to-Consumer revenue, for the twelve months of 2022. The increase in operating expenses as a percentage of revenue was primarily attributable to expense deleverage on a lower revenue base. The 2023 financial results also included a pre-tax charge of $6,520 for an impairment of a trademark. In 2023, income from operations for the Direct-to-Consumer segment was $30,160, or 6.0% of Direct-to-Consumer revenue as compared to $67,649, or 13.0% of Direct-to-Consumer revenue, in 2022.

First Cost Segment:

As of January 2023, the Company no longer serves as a buying agent for any of its customers, and as a result no longer reports under the First Cost segment. This change is not considered to have a material or meaningful impact on the Company's operations. In 2022, commission income generated by the First Cost segment accounted for $916, operating expenses were $150, and income from operations was $766.

Licensing Segment:

Royalty income generated by the Licensing segment accounted for $10,108, or 0.5% of total revenue, for the year ended December 31, 2023 compared to $9,798, or 0.5% of total revenue, for the year ended December 31, 2022. Operating expenses decreased to $1,681 in the current year compared to $1,944 last year. Income from the Licensing segment was $8,427 for the year ended December 31, 2023 as compared to $7,854 in the prior year.

Corporate:

Corporate does not constitute a reportable segment and includes costs not directly attributable to the segments. These costs are primarily related to expenses associated with corporate executives, corporate finance, corporate social responsibility, legal, human resources, information technology, cyber security, and other shared services. Corporate operating expenses amounted to $91,743 during the year ended December 31, 2023 as compared to $89,358 in the prior year.

27

LIQUIDITY AND CAPITAL RESOURCES

Our primary sources of liquidity are cash flows from operations, cash, cash equivalents, and short-term investments. Cash, cash equivalents, and short-term investments totaled $219,813 and $289,798 at December 31, 2023 and December 31, 2022, respectively. Of the total cash, cash equivalents, and short-term investments as of December 31, 2023, $134,745, or approximately 61%, was held in our foreign subsidiaries, and of the total cash, cash equivalents, and short-term investments on December 31, 2022, $133,729, or approximately 46%, was held in our foreign subsidiaries.

On July 22, 2020, we entered into a $150,000, five-year, asset-based revolving credit facility with various lenders and Citizens Bank, N.A (the “Credit Agreement”). On March 25, 2022, we entered into the Credit Agreement, which replaced the London Interbank Offering Rate (“LIBOR”) with the Bloomberg Short-Term Bank Yield Index (“BSBY”) as the interest rate benchmark, among other changes. On April 3, 2023, we entered into a second amendment to the Credit Agreement, which reflects CIT Group/Commercial Services, Inc. (“CIT”) as an additional receivables collection agent for us and certain guarantors. Further, on October 23, 2023, we entered into a third amendment to the Credit Agreement in order to accommodate certain changes made to our existing factoring arrangement with CIT.

As of December 31, 2023, we had working capital of $477,208, cash and cash equivalents of $204,640, short-term investments of $15,173, no cash borrowing, and $504 in letters of credit outstanding unrelated to the Credit Agreement.

We believe that based on our current financial position and available cash, cash equivalents, and short-term investments, we will meet all our financial commitments and operating needs for at least the next twelve months. In addition, our $150,000 asset-based revolving credit facility provides us with additional liquidity and flexibility on a long-term basis.

Operating Activities

Cash provided by operations was $229,237 in 2023 compared to $267,883 in the same period of the prior year. The decrease in cash provided by operations was primarily driven by unfavorable changes in receivables and net income offset by less cash used in accounts payable and accrued expenses.

Investing Activities

Cash used in investing activities was $99,892 for the year ended December 31, 2023, which consisted of $75,271 for the acquisition of Almost Famous and purchases of $25,688 in short-term investments offset by cash received of $25,872 from the maturities and sales of short-term investments. We also made capital expenditures of $19,470, principally for leasehold improvements, new stores, and systems enhancements. We also had investments of $5,339 related to other investing activities.

Financing Activities

During the year ended December 31, 2023, net cash used in financing activities was $200,936, which primarily consisted of share repurchases and net settlements of stock awards of $142,348, cash dividends paid of $63,177, partially offset by an investment of a noncontrolling interest of $4,486.

28

Contractual Obligations

Our contractual obligations as of December 31, 2023 were as follows:

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[[/GREPCENT_TABLE]]

(1) Refer to Note M – Leases to the consolidated financial statements included in this Annual Report on Form 10-K for further information.

(2) Refer to Note O – Commitments, Contingencies, and Other to the consolidated financial statements included in this Annual Report on Form 10-K for further information.

Substantially all our products are produced by independent manufacturers at overseas locations, the majority of which are located in China, with a growing percentage located in Cambodia, Mexico, Vietnam, India, Italy, Brazil, and some European nations. We have not entered into any long-term manufacturing or supply contracts with any of these foreign manufacturers. We believe that a sufficient number of alternative sources exist outside of the United States for the manufacture of our products. Purchases are made primarily in United States dollars.

As of the date of this report, we have employment agreements with our Founder and Creative and Design Chief, Steven Madden, and certain executive officers, which provide for the payment of compensation aggregating to approximately $10,686 in 2024, $10,368 in 2025 and $9,396 in 2026, $8,589 in 2027, $8,549 in 2028, $7,942 in 2029, and $7,746 in each of the years 2030 and 2031.

In addition, some of these employment agreements provide for discretionary bonuses and some provide for incentive compensation based on various performance criteria as well as other benefits, including stock-related compensation.

Transition tax of $4,884 was the result of the Tax Cuts and Jobs Act of 2017 (the "Tax Act"). Excluded from the contractual obligations table above are long-term taxes payable of $238 as of December 31, 2023 primarily related to uncertain tax positions, for which we are unable to make a reasonably reliable estimate of the timing of payments in individual years beyond one year due to uncertainties in the timing of tax audit outcomes. For further information, refer to Note N – Income Taxes to the consolidated financial statements included in this Annual Report on Form 10-K.

Dividends

In February 2023, our Board of Directors declared a quarterly cash dividend of $0.21 per share on our outstanding shares of common stock. The dividend was paid on March 24, 2023, to stockholders of record as of the close of business on March 10, 2023. We paid total cash dividends for the three months ended March 31, 2023 of $16,039.

In May 2023, our Board of Directors declared a quarterly cash dividend of $0.21 per share on our outstanding shares of common stock. The dividend was paid on June 23, 2023, to stockholders of record as of the close of business on June 12, 2023. We paid total cash dividends for the three months ended June 30, 2023 of $15,856.

In August 2023, our Board of Directors declared a quarterly cash dividend of $0.21 per share on our outstanding shares of common stock. The dividend was paid on September 25, 2023, to stockholders of record as of the close of business on September 15, 2023. We paid total cash dividends for the three months ended September 30, 2023 of $15,698.

In November 2023, our Board of Directors declared a quarterly cash dividend of $0.21 per share on our outstanding shares of common stock. The dividend was paid on December 29, 2023, to stockholders of record as of the close of business on December 15, 2023. We paid total cash dividends for the three months ended December 31, 2023 of $15,584.

On February 27, 2024, our Board of Directors approved a quarterly cash dividend. The quarterly dividend of $0.21 per share is payable on March 22, 2024 to stockholders of record as of the close of business on March 8, 2024.

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Future quarterly cash dividend payments are subject to the discretion of our Board of Directors and contingent upon future earnings, our financial condition, capital requirements, general business conditions, and other factors. Therefore, we can give no assurance that dividends will be paid to holders of our common stock in the future.

Inflation

Actual results could be negatively and materially impacted due to risks and uncertainties, including the impacts of inflationary pressures globally and the war in Ukraine, the war in the Middle East, and the related broader macroeconomic implications. Consumer spending has been and may continue to be negatively impacted by inflationary pressures, and other macroeconomic and geopolitical factors. All these factors have negatively impacted, and might continue to negatively impact, our direct sales to end consumers and our sales to our wholesale customers. Historically, we have minimized the impact of product, wages, and logistic cost increases by raising prices, renegotiating costs, changing suppliers, and improving operating efficiencies. However, no assurance can be given that we will be able to offset such inflationary cost increases in the future.

CRITICAL ACCOUNTING POLICIES AND THE USE OF ESTIMATES

Management believes the following critical accounting estimates are the most significantly affected by judgments and assumptions used in the preparation of our consolidated financial statements: allowances for doubtful accounts; markdowns and chargeback allowances, co-op advertising allowances, customer returns; inventory valuation; and valuation of intangible assets and goodwill. Our estimates are made based upon historical factors, current and future circumstances and market conditions, and the experience and judgment of management. Assumptions and estimates are evaluated on an ongoing basis, and we may employ outside experts to assist in the valuation process of our intangible assets and goodwill.

Allowances for doubtful accounts. A vast majority of our customers’ receivable balances are protected under our factoring and collection agency agreements with Rosenthal & Rosenthal, Inc. (“Rosenthal”) and CIT Group/Commercial Services, Inc. (“CIT”), described in Note Q – Factoring Agreements to the consolidated financial statements included in this Form 10-K. Under this agreement, Rosenthal assumes the credit risk resulting from a customer’s financial inability to make payment of credit-approved receivables. We also use risk insurance, letters of credit, and put agreements to mitigate credit risk for a significant portion of the receivables not covered under our Rosenthal agreement. The balance of receivables not covered under our Rosenthal agreement is reduced by an allowance for amounts that may be uncollectible in the future.

The estimated allowance for doubtful accounts is based on an analysis of the aging of accounts receivable, assessments of collectability based on historical trends, the financial condition of our customers, and an evaluation of economic conditions. Differences in management’s estimation of the above factors could impact our results of operations and financial position. The balances of allowances for doubtful accounts are generally correlated with our revenues from wholesale customers whose receivables are not covered under our Rosenthal agreement, and actual losses have historically been within our expectations and in line with the allowances we have established. The balances and activity in the allowances for doubtful accounts are presented in Note T – Valuation and Qualifying Accounts to the consolidated financial statements included in this Form 10-K. A hypothetical 5% increase in our allowance for doubtful accounts as of December 31, 2023 would have increased our 2023 operating expenses by approximately $200.

Markdowns, chargebacks, co-op advertising, and customer returns. As described in Note B – Summary of Significant Accounting Policies to the consolidated financial statements included in this Form 10-K, we provide variable consideration to our wholesale customers to maximize sales of our product on the retail floor, in the form of markdowns and chargeback allowances, co-op advertising allowances, and return reserves related to the current period sales.

a.Markdowns and chargeback allowances. We evaluate anticipated customer markdowns and chargeback allowances by reviewing several performance indicators for our major customers. These performance indicators, which include inventory levels on the retail floors, sell through rates to the end consumer, and gross margin levels, are analyzed by management to estimate the amount of customer allowances. We also discuss product performance with our retail partners on an ongoing basis to gather more intelligence to inform our estimation process. Differences in management’s estimation of the above factors from period to period could impact our results of operations and financial position. The levels of markdown and chargeback allowances are generally correlated with our revenues to wholesale customers. A hypothetical 5% increase in the reserve balance for markdowns and chargeback allowances as of December 31, 2023 would have decreased our 2023 revenue by approximately $1,500.

b.Co-op advertising allowances. Under our co-op advertising programs, we agree to reimburse the retailer for a portion of the costs incurred by the retailer to advertise and promote some of our products. We estimate the costs of co-op advertising programs based on the terms of the agreements with our customers. Differences in management’s estimation of the co-op advertising activity at our customers and the resulting amount of the reserve for these allowances from period to period could impact our results of operations and financial position. The level of co-op advertising support is generally correlated with our revenues to wholesale customers. A hypothetical 5% increase in the reserve balance for co-op advertising allowances as of December 31, 2023 would have an immaterial impact on our 2023 revenue.

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c.Return reserve. Our Direct-to-Consumer segment accepts unworn returns within 30 days from the date of a sale, or 30 days from the date of delivery for online orders. We estimate a return reserve in the Direct-to-Consumer segment by establishing a return rate using historical returns data. The rate is then applied to eligible revenues recorded in the current period to calculate the reserve. We do not accept returns as a normal business practice in our wholesale segments, except for our Blondo® and Dolce Vita® product lines. We estimate such returns based on historical experience and current market conditions. The level of returns is generally correlated with our revenues. A hypothetical 5% increase in the return reserve as of December 31, 2023 would have decreased our 2023 revenue by approximately $200.

The balances and activity in the markdown, chargeback, and co-op advertising allowances are included in Note T – Valuation and Qualifying Accounts to the consolidated financial statements included in this Form 10-K.

Inventory valuation. Inventories are stated at the lower of cost or net realizable value, on a first-in, first-out basis. We review inventory on a regular basis for excess and slow-moving inventory. The review is based on an analysis of the age and styles of inventory on hand, historical sales of the same or similar products, and expected net realizable value through future sales. The analysis includes a review of inventory quantities on hand at period-end in relation to year-to-date sales and projections for sales in the foreseeable future as well as subsequent sales and discussions with both traditional and off-price retailers. We consider quantities on hand in excess of estimated future sales to be at risk for market impairment. The estimated net realizable value is determined based on the estimate of selling prices of inventory through off-price and discount store channels, department stores, and our own direct-to-consumer channel. The likelihood of any material inventory write-down is dependent primarily on the expectation of future consumer demand for our products, which is influenced by consumer trends, economic and market conditions, weather patterns for seasonal goods, and the impacts of the COVID-19 pandemic. A misinterpretation or misunderstanding of future consumer demand for our products due to these or any other factors could result in inventory valuation changes compared to the valuation determined to be appropriate as of the balance sheet date.

In general, our inventory obsolescence estimates have historically been within our expectations and in line with the reserves established, and although possible, significant variation is not expected in the future. A hypothetical 5% increase to inventory reserves at December 31, 2023 would have decreased our 2023 gross profit by approximately $400.

Valuation of intangible assets and goodwill. We estimate and record the fair value of purchased intangible assets at the time of their acquisition. The fair values of these intangible assets are estimated based on independent third-party appraisals that are reviewed and approved by us. Goodwill and other intangible assets deemed to have indefinite useful lives are not amortized. These assets are tested for impairment at least annually on the first day of the third quarter, or more frequently if impairment indicators are present. Intangible assets with finite lives are amortized over their estimated useful lives and tested for impairment if indicators are present.

Our annual impairment assessment of goodwill and indefinite-lived intangible assets is generally performed using a qualitative approach to determine whether it is more likely than not that the fair value of a reporting unit or intangible asset is less than its carrying amount. Performance of the qualitative impairment assessment requires judgment in identifying and considering the significance of relevant events and circumstances including external factors, such as macroeconomic and industry conditions, and the legal and regulatory environment, as well as entity-specific factors, such as actual and planned financial performance, that could impact the fair value of our reporting units and indefinite-lived intangible assets. The results of our most recent quantitative tests are also considered in performing the qualitative assessment.

If the results of the annual qualitative assessment conclude that it is not more likely than not that the fair value of a reporting unit or an indefinite-lived intangible asset exceeds its carrying value, or if interim indicators of impairment are identified, a quantitative impairment test is performed.

A quantitative impairment test involves comparing the fair value of a reporting unit or intangible asset with its carrying value. If the fair value is less than the carrying value, an impairment loss is recorded for an amount equal to the excess of the carrying value over the fair value. For goodwill, the impairment loss is limited to the amount of the respective reporting unit’s allocated goodwill. Determination of the fair value of a reporting unit or indefinite-lived intangible asset is subjective in nature and involves the use of significant estimates and assumptions including consideration of external factors, such as macroeconomic and industry conditions, and the legal and regulatory environment, as well as entity-specific factors such as actual and planned financial performance. These estimates and assumptions could have a significant impact on whether an impairment charge is recognized and the amount of any such charge. Estimates of fair value are primarily determined using discounted cash flows, market comparisons, and recent transactions. These approaches use significant estimates and assumptions, including projected future cash flows, discount rates, growth rates, and determination of appropriate market comparisons. It is possible that our conclusions regarding impairment of goodwill or other intangible assets could change in future periods if, for example, our businesses do not perform as projected or overall economic conditions in future periods vary from current assumptions.

Our annual impairment tests were last performed as of July 1, 2023 using a quantitative impairment test as described above, the results of which indicated that the fair values of our reporting units and indefinite-lived intangible assets significantly exceeded their carrying values. A hypothetical 10% decrease in the fair values of our reporting units and our indefinite-lived intangible assets as of December 31, 2023 would not have resulted in any material impairment charges. No goodwill or intangible asset impairment charges were recorded as a result of our annual impairment tests during any of the years presented in this Form 10-K.

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During the fourth quarter of 2023, certain events occurred which led the Company to conclude that impairment indicators existed and the Company performed a valuation of the GREATS® trademark. The estimated fair value of this trademark was determined using an excess earnings method, incorporating the use of projected financial information, and a discount rate which are developed using market participant based assumptions. As a result of this assessment, the GREATS® trademark was written down from the carrying value of $12,670 to its fair value of $6,150, resulting in a pre-tax non-cash impairment charge of $6,520. This charge was recorded in impairment of intangibles in the Company’s Consolidated Statements of Income and recognized in the Direct-to-Consumer segment.

During the fourth quarter of 2021, certain decisions were made by the Company that resulted in the change in the useful life of the BB Dakota trademark from an indefinite to a finite life. As a result, the BB Dakota trademark was assessed for impairment. The estimated fair value of this trademark was determined using an excess earnings method, incorporating the use of projected financial information, and a discount rate, which was developed using market participant-based assumptions. As a result of this assessment, the BB Dakota trademark was written down from the carrying value of $9,670 to its fair value of $7,050, resulting in a pre-tax, non-cash impairment charge of $2,620. This charge was recorded in impairment of intangibles in the Company’s Consolidated Statements of Income and recognized in the Wholesale Accessories/Apparel segment. The fair value of $7,050 was amortized over its remaining useful life of one year and was fully amortized at the end of 2022.

See Note G – Goodwill and Intangible Assets to the consolidated financial statements included in this Form 10-K for further detail and impairment charges.